#Plaster wall patch no shrinking how to
#Plaster wall patch no shrinking install
#Plaster wall patch no shrinking crack

Products for underground construction (UTT).Wall protective and decorative coatings.Admixtures for Concrete, Mapestone and Mapei Color Paving.Products for Resilient,Textile Materials and Sports Flooring.Products for Ceramics and Stone Materials.Once dried the grit gives the plaster some 'tooth' to grab to. It is applied with a wide brush or thick roller to the entire surface. This is basically a primer coat (not a paint) containing sand (or grit) combined with a bonding agent.

The panel is sold in varying depths 1/2 inch and 3/8 inch being the most common.Īnother faster and least expensive alternative is to make up a sand slurry and brush it on the wall. Don't overlap the sections butt them edge-to-edge.

#Plaster wall patch no shrinking install

They install directly to the drywall with no vapor barrier required. No need to be concerened about correct spacing from the drywall the stiffeners also keep the lathe the correct distance from the surface.

The lathe is simply nailed to the surface with roofing nails that are able to penetrate into the framing members. The diamond-shapes are cupped so as to hold the plaster more securely preventing it from sliding off. It also has strong backs (stiffeners) running longways to keep the panel from bending.īe aware that there is a specific orientation when installing the lathe. It is shaped with opposing diamond shaped recesses in several rows. This lathe is sold in 8x2 foot sections (or about those dimensions). The most assured way to have the plaster remain on the drywall is to install a metal lathe. The plaster may adhere to the drywall if the total amount isn't too thick. I have not tried it, but what I do know, what I have tried did not work satisfactory for me.

#Plaster wall patch no shrinking how to

I think Ed Beal's answer may have a good idea on how to mimic the sanded finish. Beyond the edges, into towards the repair there will be ripples to sand out later after it dries but the edges will already be smooth.hopefully. You could get by without the coarse sanding first, but you would need to wet sponge the edges down to feather in the new to old. The bumps of sand will make the new finish ripple because of it. This will make the final skim coat on the repair much easier to do. I would try to grind down the roughness a little with a very coarse sandpaper on a sanding pole or pad if possible. It looks like you have a sanded finish on your ceiling. If you do just the joint, you may notice a high spot because of it. If you leave it as it is now, it may take a few bags of fast set to get it filled in properly. This would allow a LOT less mud to be used. This would mean taking down what you have up already. If you are adding your drywall directly to the framing and not adding it over the rock lath, which my answer above assumed, then add wood strips of the proper thickness where the screws will go before you add the sheetrock. Rock lath is 3/8' thick of the 3/4' to 7/8' mentioned earlier. This is what was typically done when rock lath was used. As a mention, the black expanded metal you see at the edges of the plaster are/were 8' wide pieces bent lengthwise to act as reinforcement in the corners. Typically Plaster is roughly 3/4' to 7/8' thick. You are on the right track with the repair. This material is available in 'easy sand' don't believe it, it is better than the original fast set, but still tough to sand to a finish, so don't use it for the finish coat., use regular drywall mud for the final coat, it will go much easier.Īs a mention, if the plaster build up is a 1/2 ' or more, by all means, use 1/2' drywall for the filler. When they are filled use a 45 or 90 minute fast set to tape all joints where new and old meet. You can add dabs of construction adhesive under it too, it the framing to screw to is only on one edge.Īfter the filler pieces are in, and the existing plaster is cleaned back to get rid of the remnants of the corners that stick downward, then you can start filling in the gaps with fast set. 3/8 sheetrock is still available, get a piece and set in place with screws long enough to find the framing, say about 1 5/8' to 2' long. The sandy 'brown coat' and thin 'white coat' usually are about 3/8' thick over the rock lath.

#Plaster wall patch no shrinking crack

even if it is only on an edge, or in the middle, it does not matter, this will allow a filler piece of drywall to screwed in place, not nailed, nailing will vibrate all kinds of stuff that may crack things you don't want cracked.

A small diameter nail probe should locate something. There should be framing that the rock lath is secured to, typically as backers over the wall that was taken out or other wood that was on either side of the wall. It replaced wood lath somewhere around the 1940's or 50's. What you have is what is called 'rock lath' It is a forerunner of modern drywall.